How to get rid of milia: 7 treatments, causes and prevention

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On the long list of skin things that look like acne but actually aren’t: fungal acne (it’s actually folliculitis), butt acne (also, probably, folliculitis), and, of course, milia. To the untrained eye, these little white bumps around your eyes and nose look like whiteheads but if you’ve ever tried to pop one (tsk tsk), you’ll realise it’s not at all what you thought it was. Because according to board-certified dermatologist Rina Allawh, MD, milia are actually small cysts.

“Milia are benign, small white growths that contain keratin, aka a skin protein,” Dr. Allawh explains. “Unlike milia, whiteheads occur when dead skin – not skin protein – and debris are retained and trapped in the skin by excess oils.” See the difference? And also why you absolutely should not try to pop yours? Cool, now let’s get into the steps for how to get rid of milia because as you might guess, the best products for treatment and prevention are slightly different, too.

Here’s a quick preview of what to expect, then keep reading for the full deets.

The best tips and products for getting rid of milia

Beauty Pie Super Healthy Skin™ Featherlight UVA/UVB SPF 50 Sunscreen + Primer

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According to Dr. Allawh, in adults and adolescents, milia can form as a result of extensive sun exposure and sun damage. Need I remind you of all the other reasons you should be wearing sunscreen every day? This featherlight face sunscreen not only doubles as a primer but feels like a serum, so you won’t even mind slathering it on each morning and reapplying throughout the day.

The INKEY List Retinol Serum

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If you’re looking for a product that does it all – both treatment and prevention – get yourself a retinoid. Dr. Allawh explains that topical retinoids, whether prescription or OTC, are helpful for preventing small milia and also treating the bumps by softening the firm, small keratin plugs inside.

Avène Hydrance Aqua-Gel Moisturiser for Dehydrated Skin

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Generally speaking, skin-resurfacing procedures (microdermabrasion, for instance) are great for evening skin tone and smoothing skin texture, but Dr. Allawh points out that milia could form as a result of these treatments.

Board-certified dermatologist Marnie Nussbaum, MD, previously told Cosmo US to avoid clogging your pores and causing milia after a treatment that leaves your skin vulnerable, you want to apply thin layers of lightweight moisturiser instead of packing on the thick, emollient creams. This gel-based cream will give the skin the water and moisture it needs without overdoing it.

RevitaBrow Advanced Eyebrow Conditioner

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Since milia so often pops up around the eye area, you want to be careful with using products containing known pore-clogging ingredients or DIY eyebrow growth serums, like straight-up castor oil. “The skin around your eyebrows using castor oil can exacerbate milia, blackheads and acne,” explains board-certified dermatologist Lily Talakoub, MD. This serum instead uses peptides, biotin, and green tea extract to condition the ‘brows.

Medik8 Sleep Glycolic

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Milia has a nasty habit of overstaying its welcome, so your best bet is to prevent yours from arriving in the first place and stop them from ever coming back by regularly exfoliating with a gentle chemical peel. Board-certified dermatologist Naana Boakye, MD, recommends using an AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid), such as 20 percent glycolic acid, once a week.

Shani Darden Skincare Lactic Acid Exfoliating Serum 30ml

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Got sensitive skin? For an even gentler alternative to a glycolic acid peel, try a lactic acid serum, like this one, instead. Another AHA, lactic acid is known to be one of the gentlest (but still effective) chemical exfoliators, and it hydrates as it sheds away dead skin.

See a dermatologist

Dr. Allawh says not all milia will need removal but if you do decide to remove it, leave the extraction in the hands of a pro. “Milia should be treated in the office only by a board-certified dermatologist,” Dr. Allawh says. Your doctor can use a few different removal methods, like cautery or extractions with the use of small blades and sterile needles – all of which are much safer than picking at it yourself.

What causes a milia?

Dr. Allawh explains that the cause of milia really is dependent on your age, so to further answer that question, let’s break down the two classifications of milia:

Primary milia

Dr. Boakye explains that primary milia are normally seen in the neonatal stage and could be associated with genetic disease. If you’re looking for answers about the milia on yourself, you’re likely talking about…

Secondary milia

“Secondary milia are usually seen in older children or adults,” Dr. Boakye explains. To recap, milia bumps form when keratin becomes trapped in the top layer of the skin and could be a result of sun damage and skin resurfacing procedures as well as blistering rashes (i.e. poison ivy), according to Dr. Allawh.

Do milia go away by themselves?

Yes, milia often goes away by themselves, but very slowly. Dr. Allawh says they typically will resolve over time, some within six to eight weeks, while others could stick around for more than three months. If you don’t feel like waiting that long, make an appointment to see a derm for an extraction.

How can I remove milia at home?

Dr. Allawh explains that because milia bumps are encapsulated by a shell that creates a little cyst, unfortunately, you can’t easily pop them at home with damaging pressure. Please, don’t take that last statement as a challenge. Because you can quickly create more harm and cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or post-inflammatory redness, Dr. Boakye really recommends against a DIY removal.